Noma Projects
From home products to community initiatives, each project will be a way for us to address food issues we care about. Introducing Project 001: garums
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With game and forest season fast approaching, the R&D board in our lab is quickly filling with new ingredient trials. Today we’re creating two chestnut misos to test the flavor difference of roasted vs unroasted chestnuts. Our miso is made at 4% salt with low hydration, which is accomplished by decreasing cooking times for the ingredients. If we were to cook for longer, it would yield more thoroughly cooked ingredients, which equals more water in the batch. At 4% salt, the miso can easily sour if water activity is too high, so we adjust accordingly. We’ve separated our chestnuts into two portions, roasting one at 160C until unapologetically nutty to the nose and deep brown in color, and steaming the second portion at 100c. Cooking the chestnuts before fermentation will gelatinize the starch, allowing a pathway for koji enzymes to break down the nuts during aging, which results in more intense flavor in the fermentation process. In addition, we’ve added a small ratio of cooked peas to both trials for additional protein content. Enzymes work their magic on the composition of this base which results in two delicious by-products: sweetness from the starch and umami from the protein. After chestnuts and peas (in both trials) have been cooked to just tender, we grind and mix them homogeneously with barley koji. After, the total weight is calculated and we then add  4% salt. The resulting paste is packed into fermentation jars with ceramic weights and aged at 28C for 3 months. We are excited to taste these trials side-by-side and will update you soon!
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We are excited for the launch of Project 001 — our two vegetarian garums, later this year, and many of you may be asking “what is a garum?” Garums were originally fermented fish sauces made all around the Mediterranean basin. The tradition dates back thousands of years, and we’re extremely proud to carry the tradition forward. Our method of making garum is inspired by fish sauce fermentation, but instead of relying on the digestive process found inside animals, we use the enzymes provided by koji. At Noma, we use an environmental chamber that is held at a constant 60C, which we call the garum room. At this temperature other microbial processes are nonexistent, so all enzyme activity is focused on breaking down proteins into umami and starch into sugars. Because there is little or no microbial activity in our garum room, the salt content can be low or high without spoilage. We brew these garums in air-tight containers to prevent evaporation over time. For our smoked mushroom garum, we take clean mushrooms and blend with rice koji, sea salt and filtered water and age at 60C for 5 weeks. We then harvest the liquid after brewing, pour into shallow pans or containers, then place in a smoker with hay. The result is an umami-rich sauce that can be used as a versatile seasoning for all kinds of food—much like one might use soy sauce or fish sauce today. For almost two decades, we’ve been studying and employing the process of making garum using ingredients from our own backyard, in order to extract the deepest, most interesting flavors from both plant- and animal-based ingredients. What else would you like to know about garums?
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* Hawlfraint: Mae’r creadurion cynnwys yn berchnogion yr hawlfraint ragosodedig. Caiff y wybodaeth hon gan gynnwys delweddau, testunau, fideos, cofnodion a phroffiliau eu cyhoeddi ar feysydd cyhoeddus ac ar gyfryngau cymdeithasol perthynol ar gyfer gweled gyhoeddus.
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